Style Logic - A ritual before making something new
How I decide what actually earns a place in my wardrobe, with a free worksheet to walk you through it
In this series, I walk through the pieces I want to add to my wardrobe (whether I’m making or buying them) and share the logic behind each choice: why it fits my style, how I’d wear it, what fabric makes sense etc. Today I’d love to share a ritual I do before adding anything new, so that I actually get to wear what’s in my wardrobe. And I’ve turned that reflective ritual into a free worksheet that you can find at the end of this post to help you do the same. But first, let’s discuss today’s piece: the button up shirt.
I started where I always start: Pinterest. I love it because I’m not selecting with a budget or a wardrobe in mind, just with pure personal style instinct. And just like it was for grey crewneck sweaters, there’s clearly a pattern: I’m definitely drawn to classic, oversized shirts in solid colors. I also like a white or black crisp cotton shirt, but I prefer them in something flowy, like linen or a silk blend. But in colour? Give me a crisp cotton in royal blue, mauve, olive green. Something in a soft butter yellow or a bright primary red. The kind of colours that are harder to find in ready-to-wear stores the way I want them, which is exactly why making my own makes sense. I feel like colourful shirts are perfect in every fabric.
I also love to change my shirts by adding variations to collars. A classic collar is always right, but a stand collar feels relaxed and polished at the same time, whereas a pointed or tuxedo collar shifts the whole mood.
And when I look at my moodboard as a whole, there’s a clear outfit formula emerging: oversized shirt + flowy, relaxed bottoms, or oversized shirt + tailored bottoms, or even oversized shirt + structured bottoms, think barrel legs or trapezium skirts. I don’t want to think too hard about getting dressed, but I do want to look put-together. And a well-made button-up does that almost automatically. The caveat is that the execution has to be careful. Whether it’s bought or selfmade, precision matters with shirts. And in my case, I still have a lot to learn when it comes to sewing button up shirts.
What I own vs. what I wear
I own seven button-up shirts, but I genuinely love two of them; the oversized Karl shirt pattern from Sewing Machina, both versions made by me, one in a soft cotton blend, the other in a cotton twill. They are oversized in the right way, the sleeves have a detail I love, and it ticks almost every box. Wearing the same piece repeatedly definitely teaches you something; you start to understand exactly why you love it (is it the weight of the fabric, the way it sits, the colours it works with). That’s how I know I prefer button up shirts in softer fabrics and in fun colors (the red one has 11 wears on Indyx, the white one 5 wears). That clarity is what I’m trying to bring to everything I add next.
The others stay on the hanger for different reasons. Some aren’t oversized enough. Some are in colours that don’t really work with the rest of my wardrobe. And there is one in particular I like in theory but need to be in a certain mood to wear, and that’s rarely a piece you actually live in.
The patterns I’m considering
Since I already have two Karl blouses and love them both, it’s clear what the pattern isn’t giving me: a more structured, classic silhouette. That’s actually what I’m missing in my wardrobe and would love to have. So I went looking.
The Oversized Shirt by TAL is the one I want most right now, aesthetically it gives everything I’m looking for. I’m a sucker for patterns that offer options within themselves and this one delivers different lengths and pockets. The collar doesn’t come with variations, but there’s an extension pattern available separately, which I’ll look into once I’ve gotten to know the base pattern first.
The Amelie Blouse by Silversaga is a different kind of shirt entirely, more feminine, with a stand collar and a big, flowy silhouette. It’s the one closest to the gingham shirt on my moodboard. I can absolutely see myself making it, but I think of it more as a dopamine piece than a daily one. Something special, to wear on days where I want to add more fun into my outfit. It stays firmly on the wishlist for summer.
But for now, I’ll start with the TAL shirt first. I feel confident in that choice because I took time to actually think it through before committing. Here are some of the questions I asked myself:
How much do I actually want this? Am I sure I’m going to wear it? Do I know how I will style it? Do I know which fabrics would suit it best?
For fabric, I’ve had my eye on some fabrics from Driessen Stoffen. I’m drawn to a linnen fabric in royal blue right now, exactly the kind of colour that’s nearly impossible to find in shops the way I specifically want it (not only the shape or collar but I’m also thinking about what kind of buttons I would love to use). And I’m also considering a rich green color. I’ll report back once I’ve made the TAL shirt, I’m genuinely excited about this one.
So before you add anything new …
I made a free document that walks you through the same reflective process I use before making or buying anything. It’s a simple ritual, but it makes a real difference in whether a piece actually earns its place in your wardrobe. You can click on the button down below.
Thank you for reading.
This newsletter is written independently and is not sponsored. However, if you’re interested in collaborating, I’d love to hear from you.
I’ll soon share more of my sewing and knitting process on YouTube, follow along to not miss the first upload.
That’s a great process. I also have my eye on the TAL pattern — I love the pockets and can imagine making a version to layer over other shirts. I’ve made both the grainline Archer and the Closet Core Jenna. The Archer has a really nice classic, slim fit. And the Jenna is perfectly oversized. Different methods for sleeve plackets which were fun to try.
I want to try the MVP BD Shirt pattern by House of Izzie - she’s a Parsons trained designer and I’ve loved every pattern I’ve made of hers